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Haus of Haunt

Haus of Haunt

Haus of Haunt

Text JF. Pierets    Photos Caldwell Linker

 

The Haus of Haunt is the Pittsburgh based drag troupe around Sharon Needles, a self-described “stupid genius, reviled sweetheart, and PRB princess,” rose to prominence on the 4th. season of the reality competition series, Ru Paul’s Drag Race. She quickly became a favorite and media darling, lauded for her refreshing alternative “spooky” aesthetic and self-deprecating humor, and was subsequently crowned “America’s Next Drag Superstar” in April 2012.

 

In The Haus of Haunt: Watch Children, photographer Caldwell Linker presents 120 Pages and over 200 photos, chronicling the Pittsburgh drag troupe. With pictures of performances, backstage, personal and ever day life moments, Linker gives us a valuable document of the Pittsburg queer scene over the past 4 years.

How did you end up in the queer community?
I guess I’m just drawn to folks similar to me, wanted to be around people with divergent gender identities, radical politics, a desire to create something new, folks with a different perspective, and a desire to live a different perspective. I’m queer, most of my friends are queer, I am attracted to queers… I love the queer community, and the people who are part of it. Sometimes things are hard, but there is so much joy, so much love, and laughter. Creativity and creation.  Personally, I identify as queer because I don’t have a firm attachment to any particular gender. The people I am attracted to have a wide variety of divergent genders, and gender presentations.

Why make it the main subject of your photography?
Partially it’s a compulsion. I feel compelled to take pictures and I’m most comfortable taking pictures of the folks I know. Also, I think the queer community is incredibly important.  I’ve been taking pictures for a number of years now. When I started, things weren’t getting documented and I didn’t want to see our history lost. I see so many people doing such amazing and creative things, I feel like it’s important to archive them. Also, I love color, and the scene is wonderfully colorful, and attractive.

Are you a part of the Haus of Haunt?
Depends on how you define Haus of Haunt. I don’t perform with the Haus of Haunt, but according to how Sharon and Alaska define Haus of Haunt, I would say I definitely am. They include many people other than just the performers; fans, photographers, folks who give everyone a ride, etc. I’ve been taking pictures of these queens for a number of years now.

 

‘I wanted to show people that they don’t need a lot to create something amazing.’

Why make a book on the subject matter?
When Sharon got on Drag Race – where they have been showing my book, by the way – I started working on it. When it became obvious that she was an instant hit with the fans, I started working. There was a lot I wanted to share about the Haus of Haunt. One of the things that attracted me to the performances is how they have been able to make so much out of almost nothing. I wanted to show people that they don’t need a lot to create something amazing.

Tell me everything about your upcoming show. What/where/when…
My show at The Warhol Museum opens June 14th. 2013. I’m still not sure how many pictures I’m going to use, probably somewhere around 50ish. The show focuses on the queer community of Pittsburgh. I’m trying to focus on themes that I see running through, things that we all experience, things that make us different and set us apart. And of course things that are part of the human condition that run through all of us. Unlike my Haus of Haunt book, the show at the Warhol is more focused on the day-to-day aspects of the queer community, instead of performance.

 

www.sharonneedles.com
www.caldwelllinker.com

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Sworn Virgins

Sworn Virgins

Sworn Virgins

Text JF. Pierets    Photos Jill Peters

 

Northern Albanian women, faced with a culture that subjugates females, live and dress as men in order to provide for their families. These sworn virgins took a vow of chastity, wear male clothing and live as men in the patriarchal northern Albanian society. In an ongoing series, photographer Jill Peters has captured the fascination of a tradition dating back hundreds of years.

 

When and where did you come up with the idea of making this series?
In late 2008 I was reading a book written by Serena Nanda about gender diversity around the world, and came across a chapter about the Sworn Virgins of Albania.  I was intrigued by the idea of such a tradition.  I knew nothing about them, nor had I ever heard of  their existence. The general consensus that they would soon be dying out made me act quickly. I had to meet one and I was determined to photograph at least one. This idea soon expanded to making a documentary film and I put a crew together. We all traveled to Albania in July 2009 and some of these portraits were taken then. I returned again in late 2011 to continue the project.

Was it easy to find these women?
It was not easy to find them.  The Sworn Virgins are very proud but extremely private people.  The majority live in very small secluded villages not often seen by outsiders.  They remain suspicious of foreigners and their trust must be earned over time. Once they accept you however, they are talkative, warm and hospitable, often offering coffee, tea or cigarettes to their guests.

They live as men yet I guess everybody in the village knows they are women – otherwise you would not have found them. Or am I wrong?
The most remarkable aspect of this tradition is that everyone knows they are women. In this culture however, the way one dresses dictates how they are perceived. A woman who cuts her hair short, wears men’s clothes and adopts masculine traits is accepted as a man. Because this practice has a long history and is associated with family honor, inherited wealth and clan survival, the burneshas are well respected and regarded as a benefit to the family. For the most part, villagers in these areas are so accustomed to knowing a Sworn Virgin, or “burnesha”, first hand that they often wonder what all the interest on our part is about.

What do they think of this paradox? 
I was drawn to this project because of the paradox of a strident patriarchal society accepting a woman who switches her gender by choice.  I want to make it clear if it isn’t already, that this has nothing to do with sexual identity.  As westerners we tend to jump at the chance to label someone gay or straight because those seem like the only two options in our culture.  The remarkable thing about these women is that they are beyond labels.

 

 

‘In this culture however, the way one dresses dictates how they are perceived.’

I read that this decision is more related to gender roles than to sexuality. Nevertheless they have to remain virgins. Why is that?
I believe swearing to remain a virgin for life and thus avoiding any kind of romantic relationship altogether was their only way of circumventing such labels. Regardless of any orientation, they could not be with a man and still be considered a man. Nor could they be with a woman, as that would technically be a homosexual relationship since they were known to be biologically female. Also, the Kanun, which is the tribal code still influencing many in the rural north, states that a woman is only worth half as many bags of grain as a man, but a virgin is equal to the value of a man. I find it sad in the broader scope, as a woman, that this extreme sacrifice was necessary in order for a woman to exercise her free will.  Because a woman wears a pair of pants she is “suddenly” deemed capable of inheriting property, driving a car or running a business. It simply amazes me. I think the injustice in that is evident to everyone today.

Some women became burneshas when they did not want to marry the man their family had chosen for them.  Again this is a sad reflection on what it meant to be a woman in those times. Once the vow is taken though, it is forever.  To go back on a vow would be to disgrace the family and could result in a deadly feud between the two families that could perpetuate generations of honor killings. I was relieved to discover that for the most part, the burneshas did not regret their decision and insist they have led happy lives. Most would make the same choice given the same circumstances. They are pleased with the progress women have made in the past 50 years and understand why it is a custom that is dying out.

You said in an interview that this is an ongoing project. What are your plans?
My future plans for the project include finishing my documentary film. I’m proud to say I have a good relationship with my subjects and have developed a level of trust over the years.

 

www.jillpetersphotography.com

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Paul Buijs

Paul Buijs

Paul Buijs

Text JF. Pierets    Photos Paul Buijs

 

Young, reckless and fresh from the Arnhem art academy. In order to find a suitable subject for his graduation project, Paul Buijs went where no other student would follow; the shady underworld of gay darkrooms and sex parties. Hovering unsettlingly between fiction and reality, documentary style and art photography, Buijs’ work is of an unedited realism. What normally stays in the shades is now brightly lit up in an uncomfortable, confronting way. It reveals a curious and previously unexamined aspect of the gay scene, and provides a window into the collision of the club life, kinky sex and dark cellars that color the streets of Amsterdam.

 

Paul just returned from his exhibition and lecture at the Berlin Porn Film Festival when we meet. He’s once again flabbergasted by the way people react when confronted with his pictures. “It’s weird to experience that people are still to be shocked since it was never my intention to provoke. When searching for ideas that would suit my graduation project, I was a frequent visitor of the Warmoesstraat and the Regulierdwarsstraat in Amsterdam. The gay areas, so to speak. I started to take pictures and soon my teachers pointed out that I was on to something.”

During that time, Paul got very much intrigued by an article called ‘Life When The party is over’. Written by a psychologist who had made a study on gay men in their mid 30’s –  40’s and published in Wink magazine. He stated that a lot of gay men weren’t able to enjoy their teenage years because of their family for whom they only came out of the closet when they were already in their 20’s. Due to the social impact of such oppression, they started their outgoing life when most straight people in society started to settle. 

A phenomenon that in a lot a cases leads to heavy party life and the drug use that often goes along with it. Not to speak of a low career expectation. “This article explained what I questioned: what lies behind the surface of that fashionable, sexual and glamourous appearance. What was behind the mask of the people involved in this scene?”

 

‘By asking to wear a mask I wanted to underline the oneness of a certain scene.’

Still in the stream of perfectioning his art school assignment, his teachers advised him to focus on his signature. Being a huge fan of the Disney and populair culture he swiftly found a symbiosis between the personages that populate his work and the alienation of mainstream entertainment. “All Disney characters are drawn in a certain, monotonic way.  They all have the same glance, facial expression and are very similar in style. It stroke me that a lot of my fellow party people wore the same Fred Perry shirt, the same Bikkemberg shoes and had the same hair-do. By asking to wear a mask I wanted to underline the oneness of a certain scene, by making it half a mask, I made a pairing between the monotony of the public statement and their own private personality. “

With the best will in the world you can’t say that Buijs’ work is approachable or reassuring, hence the numerous galleries who rejected his work for being too shocking and the multiple reactions of viewers who found his images to confronting, to surreal, to raw and to bright. “I had no idea my work would have such an impact. I have the upmost respect for my models and I always show them their picture before I make it public because they still can be recognized despite of the mask and I shoot them while we both experience an autobiographical moment of obsession and dependency. The images are viewed like a private journal made public and it works out to be a little too much to handle for a lot of spectators. For example I got fired as a teacher because they thought my work to be too dangerous for the children and their parents. I don’t quite get it, but let me tell you that I’m too passionate and too engaged to just give up. I invariably believe that somewhere, sometime my work will be acknowledged so I keep on going”.

 

www.experiencedbypaul.com

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Pierre Garroudi

Pierre Garroudi

Pierre Garroudi

Text JF. Pierets    Photos Darren Brade

 

His intricate designs merge the lines between art & fashion and have been worn by some of the world’s biggest style icons from Naomi Campbell to Kate Moss, Scarlet Johansson and Sarah Jessica Parker. He walks the streets of London with his flashmobs and has the tendency to approach his fabrics with the eye of a scientist. 

 

Your résumé reads like a travel trip.
I was born in Iran, lived in Paris for 5 years, 2 years in Lyon, then Shanghai. In Manhattan I ran a Garroudi shop/gallery and stayed there for 14 years. After inhabiting Boca Raton for another year I made my way to London.

How does such a journey influence a person?  
I’m a sponge. I try to absorb everything. Having a multicultural background gives me wisdom and inspiration. Knowledge is like light, it opens your eyes to the world.

Why did you end up in London?
London is magical. You should see how the people dress up when they go out. It’s a vessel of inspiration.

When did your carreer start?
I studied in Paris, while working as a hairdresser in my spare time. I moved to New York in 1986. There I joined the Fashion Institute of Technology after working at various retail and design houses. I started my own label in 1993.

Why fashion? 
I think fashion is a way of expressing yourself and showing your beliefs and identity because clothes can tell you a lot about a person.

What’s your message?
It’s about being passionate, I believe whatever you put out you get back. My collections are expressions of my own experiences. It’s like looking into a mirror.

Let’s talk technical; you manipulate all your fabric?
Yes. You can’t buy any of my fabric because it doesn’t exist. I love to look at it with the eye of a scientist. The multi-layered matte and sheen silks become second skin to the wearer.

Some call it pioneering fabric-folding work.
It’s all done by hand, which creates an origami effect. I guess it’s quite unique, yes. I believe fabric manipulation it the next evolution in fashion.

And very time consuming.
It is. And you have to be extremely patient to do so. Sometimes it takes me a month to make one dress, but then you create an entirely piece unique. They are one of a kind.

You are known for using interesting and diverse models, which is a breath of fresh air in the fashion industry.
I think it’s generally better to have a diverse selection of models. We live in a world that’s mixed, I mean half of the world is Asian, and only, maybe twenty percent of the world is white.

Where do you get your inspiration?
I’m inspired by talented and creative people and by the sheer beauty of humanity. I try to learn from every person I meet. For example, my life won’t be the same after I talked to you and vise versa.

 

 

‘I took my collection ‘Red-Stopping’ to some of London’s most distinguished avenues and tubes.’

What kind of women wears your designs? 
Naturally the types of women who wear these types of clothes have to be self-secure and strong, have confidence.

Why?
Because you can’t go out there and wear something creative and be shy at the same time. The women who like my clothes use them as a tool to express themselves.

Can I call it wearable art?
I leave it up to you how to call it. I try to make things that are wearable. Expensive, but wearable.

Everybody is talking about the bad economy. Does it influence you? 
It does, yes, but I think that everything happens for a reason. Anything good or bad, it teaches you a lesson. Once you learned the lesson you can move forward.

How?
I’m doing a lot of research. Reading up about the business and  the marketing side of fashion. These days you need to be on all of the social networks, Facebook, Twitter, Linked-In. I’m looking for different ways to present my designs.

The fashion industry is changing nowadays.
The new generation want things much faster, right away, they don’t want to wait, they’re just looking for something they want, they get it, they move on. We don’t have time. Do you have time to read all the blogs, do you have time to read all the fashion magazines? This is going to reflect on fashion shows, on the fashion industry.

You already took your clothes from the runway into the streets?
And called it flash-mobs. With my cast of models and dancers, I took my collection ‘Red-Stopping’ to some of London’s most distinguished avenues and tubes.

And it became a big success.
I loved it so much I did it again with the ‘Turquoise Collection’/Beauty of the Sea’ conveying an aesthetically pleasing experience of creatures born of a mystical island, lost at sea. It was raining that day. That was nice.

The future looks bright? 
I’m sure it does. The more creative the better so feel free to write that I’m interested in any kind of collaboration. I try to learn from everybody!

www.pierregarroudi.com

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Masked Superstars

Masked Superstars

Masked Superstars

Text JF. Pierets    Photos Lourdes Grobet

 

For thirty years photographer Lourdes Grobet has penetrated the world of one of the most popular sports and deep-seated traditions in Mexico: Lucha Libre-wrestling. She documented the lives of the fighters inside and outside of the ring.

 

Lucha Libre (Spanish: Free wrestling, lit. “free fight”) is a term used in Mexico for a form of professional wrestling. Being mostly a regional phenomenon in the early 1900’s, professional wrestling remained in Mexico until Salvador Lutteroth founded the Empresa Mexicana de Lucha Libre (Mexican Wrestling Enterprise) in 1933, giving the sport a national foothold for the first time. Grobets childhood was very different from what it is today. She was a rich girl from Lomas de Chapultepec, one of the oldest and most exclusive residential areas of Mexico City. Her classes were taught by nuns and, wearing a uniform, she rode to school in a black Cadillac. She was an athletic girl and her father, a professional cyclist, obligated her to exercise before going to school. This was a routine that allowed Grobet to lead a life without physical setbacks. 

As a young woman she was determined to get away from the upper class lifestyle she was used to. “I was always rebellious and that saved me from being stuck as a good girl for the rest of my life”, she recalls. “I never wasted time trying to make money, or getting my own Cadillac.The times I watched fights on television were moments of splendor and leaps of joy but, because I was only a child, my parents never wanted to take me to the arenas to see the action for real. It was quite a mystery to me how my father, being such a lover of sport, would not take me there. It’s ironic that years later I have devoted so much into documenting this spectacle.”

In 1942, Lucha Libre would change forever when a silver-masked wrestler, simply known as El Santo (The Saint), first stepped into the ring. He made his debut in Mexico City by winning a battle royal for eight men. The public became enamored by the mystique and secrecy of Santo’s personality, and he quickly became the most popular luchador in Mexico. His wrestling career spanned nearly five decades, during which he became a folk hero and a symbol of justice for the common man through his appearances in comic books and movies, while the sport received an unparalleled degree of mainstream attention. “I had promised myself not to take pictures of any folkloric bias, but in doing portraits of fighters I found something so deeply Mexican that I was very intrigued. Meeting the fighters gave me another perspective and the one who struck me the most was El Santo. His generosity in dealing with people filled me with joy.

I couldn’t believe that the most famous man in Mexico could be so humble. I hate power, fame, and money because they corrupt people. El Santo broke the hold of fame and never had to be the center of attention, he just didn’t give a damn.” Grobet took the still photographs for one of El Santo’s films and confirmed that he wasn’t using tricks. “He didn’t use a double or strike star poses. When he finished filming there were endless lines of people waiting for an autograph. El Santo stood there and patiently signed his name up to the last person. He gave me a great deal of lessons in generosity.“

 

Grobet is the only woman whose lens has captured the magic of this exciting sport that is much talked about but known very little of.’

Staying anonymous by wearing a mask is a very important part of the Lucha Libre. These warriors need their disguise, because appearance is not only a fine adornment characteristic in the world of wrestling but also a weapon with which to disconcert, astonish, and frighten their opponent. Warriors are transformed by the sublime pleasure of becoming stoically anonymous. Their audience knows they may be well-known legends, but their private lives must remain a secret, for their epic fantasy plays out confrontation between normal, everyday environmental design and their particular mystery. The visual appeal – especially when set in scenarios outside the ring – was quickly apparent to Grobet. In Lucha Libre: The Family Portraits, Grobet shows the wrestlers with their mothers, wives and girlfriends, sitting for what would almost be a generic family portrait, but for the fantastic costumes of the luchadores themselves. By this simple gesture we are brought to the threshold of their identities – and held there. The ungainly, monstrous and splendidly defiant stance they convey with this final preservation of anonymity is of course what gives Grobet’s pictures their edge.

Despite all these great stories you have to keep in mind that Grobet is the only woman whose  lens has captured the magic of this exciting sport that is much talked about but known very little of. The only woman who worked in the arena for thirty years. She evolved  from taking pictures during fights into a frequent visitor to the private homes where the wrestlers meet, celebrate their victories and live their everyday lives. “The fighters are generous and respectful people. When I started I was young and pretty. Nobody ever failed me in that regard. We began to build relationships; we got to know one another. It didn’t take much to get into dressing rooms even though the majority of the wrestlers are men. I was spending time in gyms and eventually it was just another part of the job,  like documenting an office in another profession. Instead of positioning myself as a woman, I was always more interested in myself as an independent human being who doesn’t bow down to anyone. I’ve never been much of a flag-waver and my attitude has been rather unorthodox, but I have fought for women’s rights and equality. What I’ve always rejected is the kind of imported, middle-class feminism that doesn’t correspond to the reality of Mexican women.”

Grobets passion for this sporting ritual has led her to gather not only thousands of photographs, but a vast collection of wrestling posters and programs, newspaper clippings, postcards, flyers, magazine covers, movie posters, stickers, and diverse objects that form part of wrestling paraphernalia.  Still, Grobet says she is a “bad portraitist” because she shows people as they are and sometimes people want to be different, better. “I don’t put anyone in a pose. I was invited to their homes, I arrived, sometimes we ate – in fact the mother of Los Brazos was a great cook – and with that feeling of closeness I went to work. Their homes were wonderful. Sometimes people think that I composed the pictures but I never did. You simply enter the house and you don’t know where to look first. Everything is interesting, it’s a marvel of icons and objects.”

Grobet promised her fighters that she would make a book, and she delivered. In 2005 she published Espectacular de Lucha Libre, an effort that brought together a vast collection of images. Grobet has done more than twenty solo shows and, with her  transparent and yet kaleidoscopic reflection of an eclectic, suggestive outlook on life, she became one of Mexico’s leading contemporary photographers.

 

www.lourdesgrobet.com

 

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Et Alors? magazine. A global celebration of diversity.