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The Pansy Project

The Pansy Project

The Pansy Project

Text JF. Pierets   

 

‘The Pansy Project’ is an on-going initiative and artwork devised by Paul Harfleet in 2005. He revisits locations where homophobia was experienced and plants self seeding pansies to mark the spot. They act as a living memorial to the abuse and operate as an antidote to it. After they are individually planted, the pansy’s location is photographed and named after the abuse received.

 

The Pansy Project has had many incarnations; from small scale unmarked individual plantings to free pansy ‘Hand Outs’ where the artist speaks to passers-by about the project.  Additionally, installations of thousands of plants at the site of homophobia and exhibitions of the photographs the artist has made over the last seven years. The Pansy Project has garnered a worldwide following and has featured in various festivals and exhibitions internationally from New York to London. 

How it all began.
A string of homophobic abuse on a warm summer’s day was the catalyst for this project. Two builders shouting “It’s about time we went gay bashing again, isn’t it?” is how that day began. It continued with a gang of guys throwing abuse and stones at the artist and his then boyfriend, to end with a bizarre and unsettling confrontation with a man who called them ‘ladies’ under his breath. Over the years Harfleet became accustomed to this kind of behavior, but later realised it was a shocking concept to most of his friends and colleagues. It was in this context that Harfleet began to ponder the nature of these verbal attacks and their influence on his life. Realizing that he felt differently about these experiences depending on his mental state, he decided to explore the way he was made to feel at the location where these incidents occurred. What interested Harfleet was the way that the locations later acted as a prompt for exploration of the memories associated with that place. In order to feel differently about the location and the memories it summoned, the artist wanted to manipulate these associations somehow. Planting  unmarked pansies as close as possible to where the verbal homophobic abuse had occurred became his strategy. He would entitle the photograph after the abuse and post an image of the pansy alongside the quoted abuse online.

A positive action versus a negative incident.
Harfleet did not feel it would be appropriate to equate his own personal experience of verbal homophobic abuse with a death or fatal accident; he felt that planting a small unmarked living plant at the site would correspond with the nature of the abuse. A plant continues to grow through experience, as the protagonist does. Sowing a live plant felt like a positive action, it was a comment on the abuse and a potential ‘remedy’. He was interested in the public nature of these incidents and the way one was forced into reacting publicly to a crime that often occurred during the day and in full view of passers-by. He had observed that the tendency to place flowers at the scene of a crime or accident had become an accepted ritual and considered a similar response. Floral tributes subtly augment the reading of a space that encourages a passer-by to ponder past events generally understood as a crime or accident. The artist’s particular intervention could encourage a passer-by to query the reason for his own ritualistic action.

Very quiet yet extremely visible.
Without civic permission to plant one unmarked pansy to mark his own and latterly other’s experiences of homophobia, Harfleet continued as The Pansy Project developed. As growing numbers of pansies were planted with titles such as “Let’s kill the Batty-Man!” and “Fucking Faggot!” a particular view of gay experience which often goes unreported to authorities became apparent. When verbal homophobic abuse is experienced the assailant forces the unwilling participant to assimilate and respond to this public verbal attack; ignore or retaliate? The Pansy Project acts as a formula which prevents the ‘victim’ from internalizing the incident. The strategy becomes a conceptual shield; a behavior that enables the experience to be processed via the public domain, in this case the location where the incident occurred and, latterly, the website which collates and presents the incidents and operates as a virtual location of quiet resistance.

 

 

 

‘Sowing a live plant felt like a positive action, it was a comment on the abuse and a potential ‘remedy’.’

Pansy.
Which plant to use was of course vitally important and the pansy instantly seemed perfect. The name of the flower originates from the French verb Penser (to think), as the bowing head of the flower was seen to visually echo a person in deep thought, hence its Victorian association with effeminate or gay men. The subtle and elegiac quality of the flower was ideal for The Pansy Project’s requirements. The action of planting reinforced these qualities, as kneeling in the street and digging in the often neglected hedgerows felt like a sorrowful act. The bowing heads of the flowers became mournful symbols of indignant acceptance.

How it evolved.
What was originally an autobiographical work has become a project that has been somewhat embraced by the gay community who see the project as a strategy that explores a shared experience. Many statistics reveal that large numbers of the LGBT community have at some time experienced varying levels of homophobic abuse. In association with festivals, Harfleet also regularly hosts events where pansies are often handed out to the general public. At these events the pansies are donated to the public in exchange for hearing about the project. This subtle ‘gift’ presents itself as ‘Free Pansies’ with no catch. However the people receiving the flower take the story of The Pansy Project with them, enabling it to be communicated to a much wider, non-specific, audience.

The various on-line presences of The Pansy Project, such as blog, website, Twitter and Facebook profiles, enable the images of these – mostly ephemeral – acts to be bundled and presented to a wide on-line audience who are then vicariously able to explore and engage with the nature of this artwork and the incidents it documents. The juxtaposition of the images of delicate flowers placed in urban settings with offensive and hurtful abuse creates a complex yet anecdotal anthology of homophobic abuse as experienced by a gay population. The humbly planted pansy becomes a record; a trace of this public occurrence which is deeply personal and concurrently accessible to the public on the street and on-line. After seven years of The Pansy Project Paul Harfleet has planted over ten thousand pansies: Sometimes sowing two thousand at a time as he did for ‘Memorial to the Un-Named’ at the Homotopia Festival in Liverpool, 2008.

Four thousand were planted in the Gold Medal winning ‘Conceptual Garden’ at the RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show, 2010, and he continues to seek out locations and plant individual flowers such as the one he recently placed at the British Embassy in Istanbul. Often unsanctioned – though frequently in association with festivals, organizations and even police forces – Harfleet continues to intuit his way through The Pansy Project. In 2011 he collaborated with London based jewelry making company Tatty Devine; together they created a small wooden pin. A hand painted pansy, adorned with “Fucking Faggot”, is a subtle embodiment of The Pansy Project so far.

In September 2012 The Pansy Project featured at the Steirischer Herbst festival in Graz; ‘Truth is Concrete’ was a 24/7 marathon camp attended by over a hundred international artists where Paul planted pansies of historical significance around Graz and spoke about his work alongside Richard Reynolds of ‘On Guerrilla Gardening’; a publication that charts the evolution of guerrilla gardening and features The Pansy Project. The image exclusively included here is taken by Malc Stone and will be the cover image of The Pansy Project publication Paul Harfleet is currently working on. For more information and background visit:

 

www.thepansyproject.com

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Pierre Garroudi

Pierre Garroudi

Pierre Garroudi

Text JF. Pierets    Photos Darren Brade

 

His intricate designs merge the lines between art & fashion and have been worn by some of the world’s biggest style icons from Naomi Campbell to Kate Moss, Scarlet Johansson and Sarah Jessica Parker. He walks the streets of London with his flashmobs and has the tendency to approach his fabrics with the eye of a scientist. 

 

Your résumé reads like a travel trip.
I was born in Iran, lived in Paris for 5 years, 2 years in Lyon, then Shanghai. In Manhattan I ran a Garroudi shop/gallery and stayed there for 14 years. After inhabiting Boca Raton for another year I made my way to London.

How does such a journey influence a person?  
I’m a sponge. I try to absorb everything. Having a multicultural background gives me wisdom and inspiration. Knowledge is like light, it opens your eyes to the world.

Why did you end up in London?
London is magical. You should see how the people dress up when they go out. It’s a vessel of inspiration.

When did your carreer start?
I studied in Paris, while working as a hairdresser in my spare time. I moved to New York in 1986. There I joined the Fashion Institute of Technology after working at various retail and design houses. I started my own label in 1993.

Why fashion? 
I think fashion is a way of expressing yourself and showing your beliefs and identity because clothes can tell you a lot about a person.

What’s your message?
It’s about being passionate, I believe whatever you put out you get back. My collections are expressions of my own experiences. It’s like looking into a mirror.

Let’s talk technical; you manipulate all your fabric?
Yes. You can’t buy any of my fabric because it doesn’t exist. I love to look at it with the eye of a scientist. The multi-layered matte and sheen silks become second skin to the wearer.

Some call it pioneering fabric-folding work.
It’s all done by hand, which creates an origami effect. I guess it’s quite unique, yes. I believe fabric manipulation it the next evolution in fashion.

And very time consuming.
It is. And you have to be extremely patient to do so. Sometimes it takes me a month to make one dress, but then you create an entirely piece unique. They are one of a kind.

You are known for using interesting and diverse models, which is a breath of fresh air in the fashion industry.
I think it’s generally better to have a diverse selection of models. We live in a world that’s mixed, I mean half of the world is Asian, and only, maybe twenty percent of the world is white.

Where do you get your inspiration?
I’m inspired by talented and creative people and by the sheer beauty of humanity. I try to learn from every person I meet. For example, my life won’t be the same after I talked to you and vise versa.

 

 

‘I took my collection ‘Red-Stopping’ to some of London’s most distinguished avenues and tubes.’

What kind of women wears your designs? 
Naturally the types of women who wear these types of clothes have to be self-secure and strong, have confidence.

Why?
Because you can’t go out there and wear something creative and be shy at the same time. The women who like my clothes use them as a tool to express themselves.

Can I call it wearable art?
I leave it up to you how to call it. I try to make things that are wearable. Expensive, but wearable.

Everybody is talking about the bad economy. Does it influence you? 
It does, yes, but I think that everything happens for a reason. Anything good or bad, it teaches you a lesson. Once you learned the lesson you can move forward.

How?
I’m doing a lot of research. Reading up about the business and  the marketing side of fashion. These days you need to be on all of the social networks, Facebook, Twitter, Linked-In. I’m looking for different ways to present my designs.

The fashion industry is changing nowadays.
The new generation want things much faster, right away, they don’t want to wait, they’re just looking for something they want, they get it, they move on. We don’t have time. Do you have time to read all the blogs, do you have time to read all the fashion magazines? This is going to reflect on fashion shows, on the fashion industry.

You already took your clothes from the runway into the streets?
And called it flash-mobs. With my cast of models and dancers, I took my collection ‘Red-Stopping’ to some of London’s most distinguished avenues and tubes.

And it became a big success.
I loved it so much I did it again with the ‘Turquoise Collection’/Beauty of the Sea’ conveying an aesthetically pleasing experience of creatures born of a mystical island, lost at sea. It was raining that day. That was nice.

The future looks bright? 
I’m sure it does. The more creative the better so feel free to write that I’m interested in any kind of collaboration. I try to learn from everybody!

www.pierregarroudi.com

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Mr. Pustra

Mr. Pustra

Mr. Pustra

Text Akim A.J. Willems

 

“I wouldn’t mind appearing on the cover of Vogue.” Mr. Pustra aims for no less than the sky when he is asked about his goal for 2012. Knowing one should never run before one can walk, he tests the waters with an interview for Et Alors? Magazine.

 

We caught up with the UK based performer, artist, musical saw player & video editor after a trip to Rome where he taught a “vaudeville & variety masterclass”, which can only mean that he’s good at what he does. No wonder our curiosity was aroused: who is this Mr. Pustra? “I was always shy and insecure. I just day dreamed most of my time and pretended to be someone else, be it no one in particular though. Gradually, my confidence grew during my 20’s so I was a late bloomer as they say. I feel more assured with the person I am today and I owe it to performing. Being Mr. Pustra has made me more at ease and people seem to respond well to him. Or me? I get confused. Mr Pustra “is” me. But he just looks better.”

Mr. Pustra discovered cabaret and vaudeville by chance. “I always liked comedy, and vaudeville was an unknown term on the neo-burlesque scene in London circa 2006. On a side note: nowadays everyone and their goats refer to their acts as “vaudeville”; no bitterness here as you can tell. But anyway: in those days “Pustra/Vile-een” was born, a double act that quickly established itself as a refreshing, strange and highly talented duo with a twist of a sideshow. We split in late 2009. Later on I reinvented myself as Mr Pustra, Vaudeville’s Darkest Muse.” A “dark” muse? Is he angry, evil, melancholic or perhaps depressed? “Mr. Pustra started out as an “evil sideshow character” with a background in the circus which we used in my show “Villains”. And yes, he also has a melancholic or tragic side to him.  He has developed into an almost real person rather than a fantasy.”

Although his family was absolutely not into music or theatre – “Not at all!” – Mr. Pustra has a background in theatre and fine arts. “I studied ‘Theatre’ and had a few years of education in the “Fine Arts”; that helped me all the way. I learned to do everything myself and hone my various skills. It’s bloody exhausting, I can reveal that much.” That background is also noticeable in his influences. There are, of course, the obvious instigations for cabaret/vaudeville artists: circus side shows, American vaudeville, German countertenor Klaus Nomi, German dancer, actress, writer and prostitute Anita Berber, movie stars Marlene Dietrich and Charlie Chaplin or the Berlin Weimar “kabarett” scene of the 1920’s and 1930’s. But Pustra also lists painters such as Otto Dix, Edgar Dégas or Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec.

 

 

‘Being Mr. Pustra has made me more at ease and people seem to respond well to him.’

“I used to be a painter myself; the images that these artists created represent dreamlike scenes I often experience. Their work has style and story that I greatly admire and draw from.” “If I could ask any of my “heroes” – dead or alive – a question, I would ask Dietrich to give me make-up tips and Nomi to give me singing lessons. Dietrich’s make-up was flawless. She also was fearless and a very strong female role model for women and men alike. I admire Nomi for his incredible falsetto vocal range. To top it all off his stage persona was fiercely enigmatic and original.”

Mr. Pustra has performed in New York, Frankfurt, Rome, Berlin, Basel, Dublin, Strasbourg, Rotterdam, Amsterdam, Paris and in  many more cities. “But London is ‘the’ place to be for cabaret. It is vibrant although somewhat jaded. I have a love/hate relationship with London. It’s like an ex-lover you can’t stand but still want. Know what I mean? Paris and Berlin have smaller scenes, but offer different delights and treats.” His newest show is called Kabarett der Namenlosen (i.e. Cabaret of the Nameless).  “It’s a work in progress and inspired by the Berlin cabaret of the Weimar Republic. This is a show about Beauty, Glamour, Depravity and Melancholy. Sounds nice, non? It is not a solo project. I would want to include performer Vicky Butterfly and actor Benjamin Louche for different reasons. For now, I perform at various other shows with smaller acts and cameos.” To round up we end with a similar question as we started: what are his long term goals? “A house in the south of France. Or maybe in Los Angeles, but I certainly would have lots of cats. And a naked butler!”Don’t forget to call us when you’ve moved there. We will come and visit.

 

www.mrpustra.com

 

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Clare Whittingham

Clare Whittingham

Clare Whittingham

Text JF. Pierets    Photos Clare Whittingham

 

Some describe her work as being “darkly comic, satirical and empowering” but since she commissioned a piece for Lady Gaga, her work has become metalwork must-haves. In between art and fashion, she transforms scrap metal into wearable sculptures influenced by anything dark, weird and controversial.

 

How would you describe what you do?  
A part of me wants to say I have no idea what I’m doing. Keeping busy, testing, proving and bettering myself comes to mind when I really think about it. I want to create lasting pieces of art that capture peoples’ attention, something to be remembered for after I’m gone, especially by family & friends. In terms of work I think one word comes to mind on how I want to vision my creations and that’s “bad-ass”. I don’t want things to look cute. That’s why my sculptures, art and fashion pieces reflect what I feel.

When did you start doing this?
I didn’t plan or train to be an artist of any medium. I was working as a welder. Welders minds wander while they’re stuck in a helmet of darkness, staring at a little green glow for 8 hours a day, creating nuts and bolts. Robots are a little novelty among that trade and in general the many welders I’ve known are very creative people. My boredom led me to the scrap bin and I started collecting and making sculptures out of multiple bits of scrap off cuts in my break times. First I made things like flowers and butterflies; I was somewhat conformed by the idea that you had to go with what’ s socially accepted. In 2009 I went to an exhibition in London called Mutate Britain – Behind The Shutters – where I discovered the Mastoid Waste Company. Metal madness. Everything and more of what was lurking in my own imagination came to life. Suddenly I didn’t feel so odd anymore and from that point on I decided to create whatever the hell I wanted, however mad it sounded or looked. When he grew up, my brother read 2000AD Magazine as though it were the bible and I was fascinated by it too. It always frustrated me that I couldn’t illustrate like that. Those costumes, settings and the utter mayhem that comes to life in your imagination is amazing, so I thought I’d try fashioning my own costumes. I’m talking about 3 years ago now and it’s been an exciting time of learning, meeting people who share the vision of just creating, and not conforming.

How do people react to your collections?
Ha! Well, it’s mixed, which I think is good. The amount of times I’ve been told I’m mad or there is something wrong with me is so frightening that sometimes I  start to wonder myself. Being asked for an interview like this makes me think I must be doing something right in the creative process of making a collection of industrial wearable garments.

Can we call it wearable art?  
I’d like to believe so. When the pieces aren’t being worn they’re sculptures, erected at the studio. The metal shoes for example have either been worn on shoots or were exhibited at galleries.

 

 

I wish we still lived in an age where masked balls were regular celebrations so an over-the-top metal mask wouldn’t be looked at as a mere fetish indulgence.’

Do you have the ambition to be part of the fashion industry?
The last 2 years I’ve worked so hard on the fashion pieces that I can’t say it is not my ambition to be a part of it, or that I am not already. One of my last commissions was for Vidal Sassoon and I’ve collaborated with designer Rachel Freire for her ss/12 at the London Fashion Week in the past year. I don’t have the ambition to become a designer who makes collections and is sold in fashion houses or to be a massive brand. I did start to make smaller items that can be purchased online but I’ve shied away from making seasonal collections. I have an ever expanding collection called Girls Metal Shop tips 101- How to wear scrap metal. I’m sticking to collaborating with other designers and their collections.

Where do you get your inspiration? 
Renaissance, mythology, World War 2, 1930’s, ‘40s; comic books like 200AD, post apocalyptic worlds. Films like Mad Max, Blade Runner, Total Recall, Star Wars, Flash Gordon (however cheesy that film is, the costumes are brilliant!). Danilo Donati inspired me a lot through that film. In general I’m more inspired by costume designers than fashion designers, that’s for sure.

Do you feel like you’re part of a movement?
No, but there should be a movement called “kicking ass while taking names”! I’m sure that if you rounded up all the people who are classing themselves as “individual”, there would be a huge movement.

You live in Kent, how does that small town influence your work? 
It is quiet and not a place where you’d go shopping. It has a lot of history and there are still WWII bunkers off the docks which inspired me to explore them thoroughly while growing up. It has a ship wreck, the SS Richard Montgomery, about 2.5 km from town. It still holds 3,173 tons of munitions, containing approximately 1,400 tons of TNT high explosives. The doom and gloom of living on an island that could potentially blow up, is a clear influence on my apocalyptic manic nature. My new favourite place right now is London. Hackney Wicks is a creative hub and I spend a lot of time there. Nevertheless it’s always nice to come home and get away from the scene. I could imagine living in London but with today’s economical climate it’s not justifiable to move there. Let’s not forget that I’ve got a nice little set up here in Kent.

What do you want to be when you grow up? 
I’m not sure. I wanted to become a welder and became one at 16, then I wanted to be an artist and a designer. Now, at 27, I would like to get involved in film. Working in films has always been a big ambition of mine.  I’d love to be a part of the art department. Working on props, costumes, set design and effects.But my first aim is to quit my job in the factory and solely do my own thing. That would be great.

 

www.clarewhitt.tumblr.com

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New Club Kids

New Club Kids

New Club Kids

Text JF. Pierets    Photos Oggy Yordanov

 

The Noughties saw the rise of a new generation of Club Kids following in the footsteps of their predecessors – the original Club Kids of New York City, who, in turn, had followed London’s Blitz generation. In the early 1980’s, the Blitz Club in London’s Covent Garden became the focal point for an alternative club scene–frequented by Adam Ant, Boy George, Siouxsie Sioux and Steve Strange–which spawned even more radical clubs such as Leigh Bowery’s infamous Taboo club in London’s Leicester Square. Bowery famously enjoined, ‘Dress as though your life depends on it or don’t bother’, a mantra the new Club Kids have adopted as their own. They dress outrageously, with a penchant for kitsch and anti-fashion. Often with a mixture of their own self-made outfits and carefully selected labels (predominantly Vivienne Westwood), oversized accessories, excessive amounts of make-up and frequently highly androgynous looks, these flamboyant clubbers have created a vibrant New Club Kids’ scene in London’s bohemian nightlife underground. Fabulous or trashy, beautiful or scary, glamorous or freaky. 

 

Bulgarian-born photographer Oggy Yordanov has lived in London’s Soho district since 2001. As a party kid himself he was so inspired by the exuberance and avant-garde fashion of the London club underground, that he decided to make a unique time document: “While selecting the photographs for this book, I reviewed thousands of images shot over the past decade. The incredible memories flooded back, all those parties and amazing people that made my years in the great city of London so phenomenal. I wanted to share those memories.” At the time I moved to London, in early 2001, the party scene was still dominated by the super-clubs – places like Fabric, Ministry of Sound, Fridge, Heaven and Turnmills – providing a vibrant playground for the young clubber. These were huge capacity venues with great DJ line-ups that pulled in massive crowds of energetic party-goers, some even brought asian escorts to party with. But one breed of party animal was missing – the club kid. It was the time of “less is more” and dressing down was the ongoing trend. For a while I believed that the avant-garde fashion of the real underground London had disappeared, somehow vanished with the modern transformation of clubland. Thankfully, things were starting to change.

In 2002, the musical “Taboo” opened in Leicester Square, Boy George’s tribute to a bygone era – the New Romantics – London’s original “dressers”. The New Romantics were a group of creative and very ambitious individuals, bored with the Punk that had ruled the London scene since the mid 70’s – these kids were looking for something new and different. What started as “Bowie Night”, a small gathering at Billy’s in Soho, quickly progressed into a new wave of party style. In 1979 it moved to the now legendary Blitz Club in Covent Garden. Started by Steve Strange of Visage, Blitz became a hotspot for new talent and attracted a great deal of attention from both media and the music world. With their outrageous dress-sense, black lipstick, heavy eyeliner and asymmetric hairdos, the Blitz Kids started a nightclub revolution. They drew inspiration from the unlikeliest of places and would go to extraordinary lengths to look different, anything to stay ahead of the pack. The musical “Taboo” did much more than revive the New Romantics. It centred around one of the most eminent figures of 80’s nightlife, the very heart and soul of London’s alternative fashion scene – Leigh Bowery. As a true innovator – performance artist, club promoter, model, fashion designer – Leigh started the now infamous polysexual club, Taboo, in 1985. It quickly established itself as the wildest, most fashionable night in town. With his body-morphing costumes, a taste for the bizarre and a deep desire to shock, Bowery radically challenged the boundaries between figure, gender, fashion, beauty and art.

With his premature death in the early 90’s, London lost its brightest, most extraordinary star and arguably the single-most influential figure for the New Club Kid generation. A year after “Taboo – the musical”, a movie about the New York Club Kids hit the big screens worldwide. “Party Monster” brought to life the most outrageous and daring party characters from across the Atlantic, in all their glory and hedonistic debauchery. Partly influenced and often joined by Leigh, these kids took the scene to new heights. They partied harder, dressed wilder, became the underground superstars to a generation worldwide and coined the term Club Kids. At this point London had already witnessed the first signs of a new wave of underground “art-clubbing”. Nag Nag Nag, a mid-week mash-up at the small Soho backstreet club, “The Ghetto”, and the more challenging Kashpoint, were both gaining popularity. Kashpoint, with its very strict door policy,  encouraged extreme dress-up and reignited London’s alternative clubbing. Suddenly the New London Club Kids generation had arrived. Kashpoint attracted some of the original founders of the New Romantics scene, along with fresh new artists, fashion students and up-and-coming musicians – the usual bunch.

Not surprisingly, its most memorable night was a Leigh Bowery tribute – imagine a club packed with hundreds of Boweries. The scene was thriving and an array of new clubs were popping up on a weekly basis. Kashpoint and Nag Nag Nag championed a low-fi, electoclash sound which soon became synonymous with the scene. Johny Slut told The Guardian in 2005 “One reason I started Nag Nag Nag was that music was becoming more interesting again. Anyone who thinks club culture is dead should come and see the queue on Wednesday night. Another breakthrough club that started around the same time was Act Art, which focused on live performances merging art, fashion, pop and club culture. It established itself as the ultimate underground event to challenge creativity and make people feel like they belonged.
 

 

It’s a platform for some of the most radical, experimental and risqué performances imaginable.’

It is, to this day, a platform for emerging artists showcasing some of the most radical, experimental and risqué performances imaginable. The mid-noughties were the new 80’s. Music and fashion were reviving the styles of the decade in its entirety and inevitably, it reflected on the club-scene. There were the Neo-Romantics, the New Punks and the Voguers but perhaps the most original of all revivals was the Nu Rave, advocating DIY style over fashion. Though short-lived, it made its mark on the scene. Labels were being ripped off in favour of personally customized outfits. Plastic neon toys became the ultra-chic, must-have accessory, matched with brightly coloured jeans and gold trainers. Throughout 2006-2008 London was overtaken by the Voguing revival. Though started as an underground dance movement in 80’s New York, it was brought to the mainstream with Madonna’s 1990 hit single ‘Vogue’. Almost completely wiped out by the AIDS epidemic in the 90’s, Voguing was brought back to life on this side of the Atlantic through the advanced popularity of YouTube and the documentary “Paris Is Burning”.

Voguing “Houses” were formed and for a couple of years many Voguing Ball’s and dance-off’s took place around London. Embracing this amalgam of styles – old and new, was the club Boombox, based in the new fashion hot-spot of Hoxton in the East End. It was the brainchild of Richard Mortimer and just like its predecessor ‘Family’, it was never advertised but always spoken about. Boombox attracted a cult following and became the hottest ticket in town. It was particularly favoured by the youth ‘bible’ – ID magazine – and regularly featured in their pages. With its eclectic style and iconic status Boombox became the symbol of the contemporary London look. Favoured for spotting new talent, it was the place to be seen and soon magazines from all over the world were referencing the scene. Editorials in V magazine, WAD and POP magazine followed, but by far the most serious recognition of their fashion came when Italian Vogue “borrowed” Molaroid’s signature disco ball accessory for their cover.

The Club Kids were getting serious attention from the media, a lot were casted in music videos and commercials, others kick-started their careers as fashion designers, stylists, make-up artists, musicians or DJs. Some started their own club-nights, most famously Jodie Harsh, who emerged in 2006 with Circus, and Daniel Lismore, whose latest venture Shabba Dabba Daa has just made ID Magazine’s “Hottest Night in Town” list. Fashion has always walked hand in hand with music and London has a rich history for dressing-up. Club Kids or “dressers”, as some would prefer, encapsulate the creative London as I know it. Fabulous, yet trashy, beautiful and scary, glamorous or freaky – meet the New London Club Kids.”

 

New Club Kids: London Party Fashion in the Noughties
By Oggy Yordanov
Publication date: April 2011, £16.99, Paperback
304 pages with 300 colour illustrations
13 x 19 cm
ISBN 978-3-7913-4554-3
www.prestel.com

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