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Roxanne Bauwens

Roxanne Bauwens

Roxanne Bauwens

Text JF. Pierets    Photos Roxanne Bauwens

 

Her website states: ‘So far I have done research on various topics: identity, beauty ideals, (ab) normality, medical abnormalities, skin, perception, genderbending and uniqueness in contrast to uniformity.’ Needless to say we were very intrigued on hearing more about visual artist Roxanne Bauwens. A conversation about beauty, open-mindedness and the human soul. 

 

Your work evolves around your personal vision on beauty. Why?
I’ve always been very interested in the concept of beauty, or better, what people believe is beautiful. Like most young girls I used to slide through fashion magazines, and like probably all of them I always ended up with a feeling that I didn’t live up to those standards. I guess my former huge unibrow must have had something to do with that. Now that I’m older people consider me a beautiful woman, yet most of the time it doesn’t go any further or beyond that observation. I guess that’s why I find it so important to attach great significance to what’s real and what’s not. To show a different point of view.

So it’s a personal evolution? 
For me art is all about evoking and projecting. Yet you need experience in order to evoke or project something relevant. I guess part of that has to do with my upbringing, since I come from a lesbian home, which was slightly off cue when I was younger. Everything about my family was just a little bit different from my friends’ families. In addition that made me also a bit ‘different’, so to speak. Never belonged, which of course I find now more enjoyable than back then.

Can you define beauty?
When you search for the definition of beauty, you get the following: ‘The quality present in a thing or person that gives intense pleasure or deep satisfaction to the mind, whether arising from sensory manifestations (as shape, color, sound, etc.), a meaningful design or pattern, or something else (as a personality in which high spiritual qualities are manifest).’ For me, beauty is the inside that manifests itself on the outside. When I’m working with models, I choose them because of their divergent features, the non-typical beauties. I always had a soft spot for imperfections, which I found more intriguing. Those little off-guard proportions that make a person unique.

Aren’t those people insecure in front of the camera, just because of that? 
Yes, and it’s very difficult to convince them of loosing their masks. My projects deflect from societies beauty standards so the first thing I need to do is to earn their trust. I’m familiar with most of the models I work with but still, they have to be confident that I’m not going to go into some weird zone once I handle my photoshop tools. Once I had a model that left. Who told me he couldn’t do it because it was too intense. 

You ask a lot.
I do. I ask for people to open up. To go, sometimes literally, naked. To show me their soul. Which is often very uncomfortable and difficult for an adult person. I’m aware of the fact that the word soul is often used in vain and is somewhat pompous to be used by an artist, but yet there’s a lot of truth to be found their. The raw, deep emotion, which is so interesting to capture with your camera.  

How do you get people to go that far?
When in the studio, it’s quite an intense and psychological process because I actually ask my models to think of a traumatic or heavily disturbing moment that happened in their lives. To actually relive that experience. That’s the moment when a person becomes radiant. When you see it all. 

On your website you talk about Marina Abramovich, who states in her documentary ‘The Artist is present’, that art should be made with emotions and that the artist must be one with the moment in which the work is created. Are you joining your models into the emotions? 
Certainly! I make playlist of certain atmospheres and evolving certain subject matters. At that moment I also have to surrender myself to them, so music helps to build up the required mood of the moment. In order to ask people to open up to me, I have to do the same thing. It doesn’t ad any value to the work when I behave like an outsider. When I’m only playing the voyeurs role. 

Do you open up yourself quite often? 
Not very often. I used to do it a lot, which didn’t always have the nicest outcome. So you can say I’m careful, which I deplore and try to change on an every day basis. Yet I find it very heard to keep a certain naivety, a belief in the goodness of people. You are always looked at. Both approved or criticized.   

So your work might be a contra reaction on how people react on you, as a person? 
Maybe it is. Maybe I like to provoke. Try to make people a bit more open-minded. And that doesn’t always has to be about the big gestures. You can also make change by dropping little visual thrills. Like my pictures. 

Do you have the feeling people are looking at your work the way you want them to? 
Some of them do. And don’t get me wrong, I’m not preaching for people to think the same way as I do. But it always feels like a victory when they ‘get’ it or are willing to open up for my work. I’m sincerely able to find people extremely beautiful, even when others consider them ugly. Just because of that certain fragility, the vulnerability, so to speak. Everything is clean and photoshopped nowadays. We’re flooded by fake smiles, clothes that speak of the wearer’s money value. I want my spectators to actually see the person behind the face, to be able to feel and see exactly the same as the one on the picture. 

 

 

‘Androgyny is very difficult to capture because the moment you wonder whether a person is a boy or a girl, that’s the moment you see true beauty.’

To see beauty beyond the obvious.
And to define beauty for themselves. Not thoughtlessly taking over what’s been told to think. Of course you have those things called the golden ratio or symmetry, which makes people like Kate Moss or Angelina Jolie universal beauties. But I like asymmetrical faces more. That makes a person interesting. Stratification between the inner person and the way he or she exposes himself on the outside. You don’t always get what you see. And happy not to.

How do you start a new series?
That depends. Often I get my inspiration from experiencing life. That, and a great deal of research; documentaries on the subject of beauty, the evolution of beauty in art history. I’m the research kind of girl. Most of the time it’s a symbioses of those two. Efficient knowledge combined with a certain mood or emotion once experienced. Than I start looking for all the ingredients to merit that particular atmosphere. My previous work also guides me into new projects since I keep on learning about new techniques, or the way the light captures a piece of skin in a satisfying manner. That kind of approach leads to the fact that all my work is a result of the foregoing ones.

Why photography, since those themes are suitable for every form of art. 
We experience a picture as a reproduction of reality and I want to show something that’s a bit bizarre, without being an alteration. So photography is the perfect registration tool.

Can you tell me something about the gender pictures that accompany this article? 
Androgyny is very difficult to capture because the moment you wonder whether a person is a boy or a girl, that’s the moment you see true beauty. I wanted to approach as close as possible the story behind the image, go beyond the cliché of average photography. My work is pure, has no fringes, so on one side you have the toughness, the hardness which you definitely need in nowadays society and on the other hand you have that feminine softness. And for me, that’s what a person is all about. About all having a male and female identity. I also don’t believe in being 100% heterosexual, I think we’re all somewhere in-between.

 

www.roxannebauwens.be

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Criaturas

Criaturas

Criaturas

Text JF. Pierets    Photos & concept Criaturas

 

Criaturas is the name Saskia De Tollenaere and Olivier Desimpel gave to the world they created for everyone who dares to dream. An experience concept where their passion for theater, art, fashion, beauty, spirituality and emotion merges in the form of unique celebrations and parties. Each time they create a new universe, their artists bring the concept to life. Especially for Et Alors? Magazine they created one of Criaturas’ amazing photoshoot. Needless to say we are very proud to feature these gorgeous images, so we asked them about this unique world of theirs.  

 

Where did you get the name? 
When we studied fashion at the academy, we got a lot of inspiration from movies by Pedro Almodovar, Tim Burton and David Lynch. Our graduation collections therefor had a high theatrical atmosphere.
Saskia The red thread in my graduation collection was the female seduction in all its facets. It was named ‘Criaturas de la ultima seduçion divina’. When we started our company about a year later, it was immediately clear to us that the name Criaturas = beings / creatures perfectly encompassed what we created.

When did you start?
Olivier My graduation collection was a Victorian funeral procession marching through the old city center of Ghent. It was a hot day in June 1999, the terraces were packed so we had a large audience. Someone asked us why we didn’t bring such act in the events sector. In those days there was very little entertainment, except for the clown, the magician and the music band so that’s how we found our stage. Later on it expanded to total concepts.

What was your first project?
The theme of our first big event was From Hell to Heaven. It was an interactive concept where guests first had to endure the journey through purgatory and hell, to end up in heaven via the gardens of Eden. 50 artists performed as witches, devils, satyrs, angels, nymphs, all the creatures symbolizing good and/or evil. It was inspired by Dante’s Divine Comedy, dripped in a David Lynch atmosphere.

What’s your best project until now?
Each concept is like a child, therefor impossible to choose between them. The most innovative are our Tableaux Vivants, because the guests not only step into a painting, but also become part of it.

What’s the most amazing thing you ever did? 
Putting a smile on someone’s face or seeing tears of wonder. The fusion of the illusionary world and reality. Technically, it is perhaps the hell-heaven concept in the beginning of our career that was the most daring. With the resources we had in those days, it was litteraly a ‘hell of a job’, yet it gave us the confidence that we could handle everything from then on. Take for example the Cotton Palazzo-event where we hung 3kms of white curtains in an abandoned, open cotton mill during a storm. The result was.. heavenly! Currently we are organizing a party where we actually build a location with 75 large sea containers This is undoubtedly the most amazing project until now.

What’s the most amazing thing you ever want to do? 
To let our world make a journey as an avant garde healing theatre. A mix of beauty, spectacle, interactive acts, unity and spirituality.

Where lies your main interest? 
To live life in the full. With love and all its beauty.

Tell me about the photoshoot? 
The time had come to take a new direction in terms of acts and costumes. We needed a new challenge and wanted to put more emotion and story in our creations. The spiritual message we wanted to convey was that every individual is beautiful with his own style and image, and can perfectly blend in a society where originality is appreciated. In nature, the bird with the most colorful plumage is the most successful match. Among people; far too often gray and colorlessness is considered normal. For the photoshoot we have created very different characters and looks, and made them party together. By giving them names like The Storyteller and The White Knight, we give a hint of the story they tell, yet we allow the viewer to have his own dreams and fill in the blancs. The photoshoot is also the start of our traveling avant garde theater so for us it’s a preview.

 

 

When it comes to costumes and accessories, yes, we make everything ourselves so it is absolutely unique. We use couture, ethnic and antique fabrics, vintage and antique ornaments and applications. Therefor our costumes radiate luxury and history.’

Do you actually make everything yourself?
When it comes to costumes and accessories, yes, we make everything ourselves so it is absolutely unique. We use couture, ethnic and antique fabrics, vintage and antique ornaments and applications. Therefor our costumes radiate luxury and history. I’m always looking for material with a high dose of craftsmanship. Both at flea markets and the worldwide web. I also like to learn new skills such as origami and kanzashi, which I used in our geisha costumes. Also the art of making hats, for which I get professional help of our makeup designer, is an enrichment. We also design the graphics, invitations, special props and floral decorations for our concept events.

Where do you get your inspiration?
History, movies, fashion, nature, dreams, life and we inspire each other.

You also have your own jewel collection? 
Yes, and not only jewelry and accessories but also home decoration, interior design and art. My jewelry collection; DTS for lovely creatures, originated at the request of a couture shop that wanted to offer bespoke jewelry to customers. So each time I use a lot of jewelry that’s been personalized make a suitable jewel for a particular cocktail or evening dress, it developes into an extensive collection in different styles. Along with Olivier, I also design for our O + S studio, which are mainly interior designs such as lighting, furniture and accessories. We always make unique pieces, we do not like mass production. Our favorite challenge is to create something customized for the clients. Watching someone’s character, personality, style, experiences, dreams, .. and design something that he or she represents. This way of working has led us already to design very spiritual things for customers.

Don’t you ever think about starting your own fashion collection? 
No, during our fashion studies, we dreamed of designing haute couture collections because of the theatrical aspect. Back then, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano and Alexander McQueen were our heroes. Yet we don’t want to get stuck in the commercial circuit where we have to take trends, rules and sales figures into account. Frankly, we just want the freedom to create whatever we want. My favorite aspect of the job is that every day is different. I feel blessed that one day I can come up with a concept and put it into shape, and the next day I can make a costume or work on my jewelry collection. I can live my inspiration and imagination without restrain. I rarely feel that I ought to do something and therefor can start each day with full passion and love for what I do.

Tell me about your future dreams? 
When it comes to realization, Criaturas is our child and we would like to see it grow and inspire others. Also the opportunity to work with famous artists or filmmakers, so we can reach more people internationally, would be a goal. And later on… a house on a hill, with a lot of animals, surrounded by nature. That would sound good.

 

www.criaturas.eu

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Allen Jones

Allen Jones

Allen Jones

Text JF. Pierets    Photos Courtesy of Royal Academy of Arts

 

Three women, wearing black leather fetish gear, produced by the same company that supplied Diana Rigg’s costumes in The Avengers. One of them is on all fours and the glass top on her back awaits your drink. The second one wears thigh high boots and is ready to collect your hat. The third one is offering herself as a chair. Allen Jones’ fetishist sculpture ‘Hat stand, table and chair’ is probably the piece of art that his name is likely to bring to mind. 

 

It was 1969 when the British Pop Art artist designed these fibreglass models of submissive mannequins offering themselves as furniture. ‘Hat Stand, Table and Chair’ were an immediate international sensation and Jones was instantly labeled ‘a cultural hot potato’ when his work got attacked with stink bombs and caused a riot when first exhibited in 1970 at the Institute of Contemporary Art in London. Feminists where furious about the objectification of women and even The Guardian suggested it should be forbidden to exhibiting the items. Jones himself claimed, ‘I was living in Chelsea and I had an interest in the female figure and the sexual charge that comes from it. Every Saturday on the King’s Road you went out and skirts were shorter, the body was being displayed in some new way. And you knew that the following week somebody would up the ante.’ In retrospect, Jones feels, ‘I was reflecting on and commenting on exactly the same situation that was the source of the feminist movement. It was unfortunate for me that I produced the perfect image for them to show how women were being objectified.’

Zeitgeist
Fast forward to present day. As from November 13, 2014 till January 25, 2015, the Royal Academy of Arts will exhibit Jones’ work from the late 1960s up to the present day. The exhibition will be a survey of his work spanning his entire career, including prints, paintings and the iconic figurative sculptures. Over the past forty years his work has remained true to the depiction of popular culture, with much of his imagery being drawn from advertising and performance. But what about ‘Hat stand, table and chair’? Is the image still causing the same unease and emotional disturbance as it once did? Not long ago, in 1986 the sculpture attracted controversy once again. The Tate acquired ‘Chair’ in 1981 and in 1986, on International Women’s Day, two assailants poured paint stripper over the mannequin’s face. It’s assumed the action was a feminist protest, but those responsible were never caught. Are Allen Jones’ sculptures still sparking controversy after all these years? Or are we living in such a particular zeitgeist that we’re not giving in?

Gender stereotypes
Modern day feminist and founder of the wayward Belgian news site ‘De Wereld Morgen’, Bieke Purnelle, states that art should dare touch, accuse, expose and challenge: ‘Context is crucial in assessing images like that and I find it hard to understand that people tend to denounce provocative art, but don’t take any offence on the countless gender stereotypes that surround us on a daily base. Of course times are different now and you only have to look at  advertisements published in the fifties to see how women’s role in society has changed. Yet I can’t help but noticing a return to the old deterministic stereotypes, for example when it comes to toys and children’s clothes. The perception of gender roles has a huge impact on how children and young people grow up. The properties that are assigned to the concept of ones gender are too much and too often emphasized to be comfortable. People get no room to just be an individual and are forced into a social straitjacket, while gender stereotypes, and by extension all stereotypes whether they concern gender, race or social class, are not only stupid and shortsighted, but also very dangerous.’

Moloko bar
‘A Clockwork Orange’ is brought into the discussion by Stella Bergsma. Writer and frontwoman of the band ‘EinsteinBarbie’; ‘there is a similar kind of art in ‘A Clockwork Orange’, one of my favorite movies of all times. Female bodies are used as tables in the Moloko bar. The first time I saw that, I thought it was kind of cool; the body as an object of desire.’ According to Martin Gayford from The Telegraph, Allen Jones got a call from Stanley Kubrick around 1970. The film director had seen an exhibition in which Jones had shown some extraordinary and disturbing pieces of sculpture. Kubrick thought they would be just the things for a scene in a new film he was planning, ‘A Clockwork Orange’. The trouble was, the director imagined that Jones would design his sets for no fee, just a credit. When I (Gayford) talked to Jones in his London studio recently, he told me that Kubrick had said: ‘I’m a very famous film director, this will be seen all over the world and your name will be known. ‘I held the phone away from my ear, I was just staggered anyone would say that. It showed an ego that dwarfed that of any artist I’ve known.’ Jones turned down the offer and a set designer produced the pieces in question (many continue to believe they were by Jones).

Men versus women
Besides from liking Jones’ objects, Bergsma also reacts when it comes to gender roles: ‘I am really not that bothered by the objectification of women because I think that objectification is a part of our sexuality, and as long as it is sort of a game it’s a quite natural phenomenon. But I would like to see more equality, I would love to see more male objects and I do dislike the fact that it is almost exclusively women that are objectified in our society. So it’s the inequality rather than the objectification that bothers me. Nevertheless, there is nothing to stop us from changing that. So as a Christmas present I would like to see men as Christmas trees. They have already got balls!’Whether objectification is a part of our sexuality or not, the fact remains that it’s quite difficult to stay ‘correct’ in such a matter. Writer and exploiter of the LGBT bookstore ‘’t Verschil’, Johanna Pas, takes it personal when she says: ‘Although I love looking at women as sexual beings, I think it’s important they’re being portrayed as acting, thinking creatures. Both in the arts as in advertising, in movies and everyday image formation. As a voyeur I would love to enjoy female beauty, yet our society turned that into a complex delight.’

 

 

 

 

‘Offensiveness in art is often a way to satirise injustice.’

Social inequality
Art holds a mirror to our society. Represents the social, economic, racial values of the time we live in and according to Charles Moffat, curator of the Lilith Gallery in Torronto, Allen Jones’ 1969 works were deliberately provocative: ‘I would argue ‘feminist’, because the goal behind the works was to draw attention to social inequality between the sexes. Photographer-Sculptor Cindy Sherman did something similar years later when she portrayed battered and beaten women as centrefolds in magazines, objectifying women who have been abused. The concept is simple: the artist is basically playing devil’s advocate (not quite, but close enough) and portraying women in such a way that it will provoke a sympathetic response to the plight of women. If we were to make a similar sculpture today, but use wax figures of minorities to make the furniture – it would provoke a similar response and make people more aware of how poorly minorities are treated. In 1969 Jones’ sculptures provoked that response, yet it was misunderstood by the general public who jumped to the wrong conclusion. Shown today, the response would be more muted and people would grasp that the purpose of the sculptures is to provoke thought about gender inequality.’

Pastiche
Fast forward to 40 years later. Norwegian artist Bjarne Melgaard creates a series that ‘reinterprets art historical works from artist Allen Jones as a commentary on gender and racial politics’.  One of the pieces is a copy of ‘Chair’ but featuring a black woman instead of the original white one. The provocative image of socialite and art collector Dasha Zhukova, sitting on that particular chair sparked outrage around the world. Artist Sofia Senna aka Fannie Sosa  was outraged by this image. ‘I’m tired of seeing white man producing work where they objectify oppressed bodies, mainly black women, under the banner of Questioning power and representation. I believe these artists, Allen Jones, Bjarne Melgaard, or even Brett Bailey, are so eager to capitalize over the black female body and its subversive potential because they are lazy. I think by doing this they avoid interrogating and dismantling their own whiteness, maleness, and over all privilege. It’s so easy!  A sexually objectified black woman will create a buzz, especially in the high art world now. There is such a fascination with ‘ratchet culture’, blackness, woman-ness and how her liberation looks. Black female bodies are both fetishized and demonized, and that creates a very profitable cul-de-sac where these bodies are exploited and appropriated, while the audiences are fooled into believing this is a critique to the powers that be. None of that. It’s just the same old bull manure.’ After an online magazine published the photo of Zhukova, perched on the artwork, the Russian socialite apologized immediately and said that ‘this photograph, which has been published completely out of context, is of an artwork intended specifically as a commentary on gender and racial politics (…) I utterly abhor racism and would like to apologize to anyone who has been offended by this image.’

Icons
According to the numerous tweets and blog comments, the apology came to late. Yet there was one online article that stood out. Jonathan Jones, English journalist and art critic wrote an article in The Guardian headlining ‘Why there’s nothing racist about The Racist Chair’. ‘Today it (Hat stand, table and chair) is an accepted part of modern art history and in fact Jones has had a revival lately. So what was Melgaard’s point? Surely, in making this woman black he means to retoxify the art of Allen Jones, to offend people with an image long since accepted. The intention is therefore the opposite of racist: it is to question power and representation. Are you offended by this black woman’s abuse? Then why is it OK for white women to be similarly humiliated in a respected pop art icon in the Tate collection?’ Don’t forget that Jones himself claimed that his own work was actually a protest against sexism. Those visions (he saw on King’s Road in Chelsea) were to fuel his artistic imagination, producing not only his women as furniture, but striking images of seemingly endless legs wearing stilettos. ‘Is it too harsh to say that only a man can be that naive?’ says Johanna Pas. ‘It would have been shocking if he would have used male mannequins. Yet I guess that would’ve never been put on display.’

It’s all about context
American conceptual artist Barbara Kruger once declared that ‘We are never a subject, we are always an object’. Which triggered Johanna Pas into stating that it’s all about context. ‘I incline to think that women in the 1970s thought they’d seen the worst when it came to sexism. Yet it was just the beginning of image advertising. Major advertising campaigns were in their infancy, we were on the threshold of video clips and never heard about YouTube. Now there is such a proliferation of sexual female stereotypes that we no longer bother to blink anymore. Jones’ work is no longer shocking because we are so inundated with similar pictures that we find them either normal, or we are too tired to respond for the zillionth time. Question is if an artist has a social responsibility. I think he or she has indeed.’ Julian P. Boom, Art Director of Et Alors? Magazine agrees that it’s all about context. ‘It’s a piece of art, and art is one of the few things that should be able to get away with provocative imagery. ‘Hat stand, table and chair’ never bothered me and although I’m an opponent of gender roles, I never came to think of interpreting the work as such. Why not? Because it’s art. Nevertheless I do fulminate against the way women are portrayed in contemporary advertising, video clips, etc. The creators of those images have an obligation towards society, towards kids growing up, struggling with their self-image. Modern day advertising cheerfully waves all of this into oblivion. And for me, this is what we should react to. Not against art, something that ought to be free of speech.’ Her comment seems backed up by Bieke Purnelle’s words that you have to give the artists a little room: ‘Let them be provocative while pushing a few sore spots. Free and easy.’

Sparking controversy
Every discussion needs its conclusion, yet in the case of ‘Hat stand, table and chair’, there is none. More than 45 years later, the sculpture still sparks controversy. Is extremely chocking to some and necessary to others. We talked to numerous women and men and even the slightest similarity in opinion was hard to find. Maybe it leaves us nothing more to do than remind you that the Pop Art artist who, motivated by the theories of Jung and Nietzsche, also made numerous paintings and lithography’s and one almost forgets that he’s also a printmaker, working mostly in lithograph and screenprint and has built up an impressive body of work. The upcoming exhibition at The Royal Academy will be a survey of Jones’ work spanning his entire career, including prints, paintings and the iconic figurative sculptures from the late 1960s up to the present day. The exhibition will also seek to demonstrate the enduring place of drawing in Jones’ creative process. His talents as a draughtsman are considerable and although infrequently seen, these drawings underpin every element of his artistic output. Go check!

 

www.royalacademy.org.uk

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A Kind of Absence

A Kind of Absence

A Kind of Absence

Text & photos Dirk H. Wilms

 

German photographer and visual artist Dirk H. Wilms focuses on self-portraits since 2001, the year he received his HIV diagnosis. After the diagnosis he barely left his house for almost four years. He thought everyone would know immediately he carried the virus in him. Fear of being forgotten got him to document his life; his awes and physical decline. 

 

Curtain # 1 
This image shows a certain kind of self-imposed isolation. I like to be alone. And I like to work alone in my studio. In this solitude I have the feeling of absolute control. During these moments, I realize that this is my place in the world.

Flower in Hand
I decided to start documenting my life as an art form in 2001, when the first traces of HIV became visible. The reason why I almost always cover my face in the photographs.

The Leaf 
This is one of my most personal pictures. Anything I could say about it would distort it.

The Rubber Balloon 
My own body is always the starting point of my productions. Yet in this case, it was the beautiful white Amaryllis from a friend of mine. I love flowers, and I love balloons.

Bent XX, The Diver 
To take such pictures give me simple joy. I don’t analyze while working, don’t think about it, don’t have any message.

 

 

www.dirkwilms.com

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Matthijs Holland

Matthijs Holland

Matthijs Holland

Text JF. Pierets    Photos Matthijs Holland

 

What do historic figures like Hatshepsut, Pope Joan, Segawa Kikunojo III, Henry III of France and Charlotte von Mahlsdorf have in common? Visual artist Matthijs Holland told us all about it.  

 

Do tell!
I wanted to create a photo project based on freedom and tolerance regarding gender. First I had my sight on the future, thinking about an ideal world and how wonderful it would be if the concept of gender would no longer be based on any norm or definition. When I decided to look at the past first in order to understand the future, I found many historical figures who disregarded social conventions. They broke with the socially imposed norms of their days. None of these figures from the past fit the role that was created for them. They could not conform to the restrictions they encountered and broke free from them. They show us that questioning gender doesn’t specifically belongs to our culture: it is of all times. It has always been there. The norm in regard to gender is much too limited and unrealistic.

Can you explain your vision on gender?
Each sex is enclosed by a strict socially imposed norm. Masculinity belongs to the man and femininity to the woman. Anything that falls outside either category does not belong to the majority and is unfamiliar territory. The unknown doesn’t fit in the social straitjacket and can’t be easily understood anymore. Because of that, it causes fear and rejection by a large number of people. Dominant women are attacked for their lack of femininity and sensitive men are not considered to be ‘real’ men. People whose gender role doesn’t fit the socially imposed norm have to justify themselves to society. However, between the stereotypical man and the stereotypical woman lies a broad spectrum where they gradually blend together and fall outside of the norm.

So you made a work of art to address these issues. 
I searched for a strong basis to tell those stories. I looked at history and brought these historical figures into the present because gender is a universal theme of all times. It is very close to me as a person and a visual communicator. 

The series is called NormAll.
I have the strong opinion that ‘everything’ should be the norm. Then words like ‘norm’ and ‘normal’ wouldn’t exist. The man/woman norm is very limited so I called it NormAll. 

Who are the people in the series? 
The timeline of portraits shows five inspiring people who each in their own way could not conform to the predominant expectations. Hatshepsut,  who did the unthinkable in a male-dominated world and crowned herself pharaoh. Pope Joan who, by disguising herself as a man, could escape the female straitjacket of the Middle Ages and was acknowledged for her talents. The Japanese actor Segawa Kikunojo III, who was so feminine that he became the role model for geishas. And Henry III of France and Charlotte von Mahlsdorf, who each in their own time chose to step outside of the expected gender roles to truly be themselves.

 

 

‘It is my idea that gender is a flexible state, evolving constantly and moving like a wave. Dependent on the phase you are going through.’

You chose to make self-portraits, dressed as those five people. Why? 
During my research, I read a lot of books by Judith Butler in which she writes about performativity. She asserts that ‘Gender is an impersonation and becoming gendered involves impersonating an ideal that nobody actually inhabits’. Gender is an ongoing, evolving element that isn’t determined at birth. By considering myself a blanc canvas I was receptive to assume the role of those historical figures. To be entirely honest I must say that Ru Paul’s ‘Drag Race’ was also very inspiring on the concept of transformation. 

What conclusion did you arrive at from studying both past and present?
It is my idea that gender is a flexible state, evolving constantly and moving like a wave. Dependent on the phase you are going through. At times you give your male side more space, at times you are more in touch with your feminine side. When it comes to sexuality – and I don’t confuse gender with sexuality – people are more fluid. I see it as a percentage. Some are more hetero or gay than others. When we are talking about conclusions from studying the past, let’s be fair: where do we stand when it comes to gender in the 21st Century? In many places in the world women still have to fight to be heard, feminine men and homosexuals are being violently attacked or even punished with death, and transgender people are still being looked upon as a curiosity. Have we moved forward through history or have we become even stricter? Which stories of our time will we add to this portrait gallery in 10 years?

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